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Why I Don't Make Dumplings for Lunar New Year's
This year, Chinese New Year falls on a Tuesday. Monday night, if we’re being precise. Traditionally, it begins the night before. When I was growing up in San Francisco, the signs were unmistakable. My mother would stop cleaning. She’d tell us not to wash our hair. And in the refrigerator there would be a giant round disc taking up a shelf on its own. Brown. Homogeneous. Let me say this clearly: it’s nonsense that all Chinese families make dumplings for New Year. My mother was

Miranda Brown
Feb 121 min read


The Curious Eater, New Beginnings: Churros Redux, a Food with Legs
A few weeks ago, a ghost from lockdown resurfaced as I was scrolling through Instagram. No, it wasn’t empty grocery shelves. Or the sight of people carrying away the last rolls of toilet paper, or even unhappy children logged onto school-issued iPads. Rather, it was an old story, and a persistent one at that: Churros come from China. Some well-intentioned vlogger had repeated this piece of mythology for the umpteenth time. The Portuguese in the sixteenth century had visited C

Miranda Brown
Jan 254 min read


The Curry Conundrum
A few weeks ago, ‘curry’ popped up on my YellowDig feed. I had just released a blogpost about Massaman curry , and that prompted a question about terminology. One student wanted to know whether we should even use the word ‘curry’. The question came from a good place: an interview by cookbook author Priya Krishna. Krishna thinks that we should ditch the term curry altogether. Here’s what she says: Curry was a word that was popularized as a way to make blanket assumptions about

Miranda Brown
Mar 9, 20218 min read


Did Churros Come from China? A Historian's Refutation of the News (ASIAN 258)
A few months ago, I awoke to find it there. On my Facebook feed. “Hey Conejita! Thought of you when I saw this.” I groaned. It was the same darn story, “ The Secret History of Churros ” from 2011, but by another writer and with a slightly different name, “ How Spanish Chefs Stole Chinese Dough and Turned Churros into a Classic Dessert .” In a nutshell, the claim: Churros are from China. Or, to quote one of the earliest versions, “ The history of the churro is ancient and rev

Miranda Brown
Feb 17, 20217 min read


The Proof in the Pudding: A Case for Taking Recipes Seriously (ASIAN 258)
The idea for this blog goes back a ways. Five summers ago, I was sitting at a table with Yang Yong, a visiting student from China. We were doing what scholars usually do: acting like gluttons for punishment. So we decided to translate a group of medical manuscripts, discovered in a tomb from ancient Northwest China (first century AD). Each day, we sat at my desk on the fifth floor of Thayer and put our endurance to the test. Character by character, we transcribed the Chinese

Miranda Brown
Jan 24, 20219 min read


The Great Noodle Debate
A picture of noodles on a plate in Canton My first encounter with food history was in the sixth grade. One evening, my father came home to tell us over dinner that he had served as a judge in a cooking case. A local group had invited him, San Francisco’s Public Defender, to adjudicate a longstanding controversy: Who invented pasta, the Chinese or Italians? At the time, I did not grasp the import of the question. I was also unfamiliar with the story of Marco Polo bringing past

Miranda Brown
Jan 23, 202111 min read


Taking the Orange Chicken Challenge (ASIAN 258)
The name of this blog might as well be the title of the class. If there's a time to be upfront, that would be now. The end of the term draws close, and we must square the circle. So what is the orange chicken challenge? You might be imagining two guys sitting at a table eating as much of the stuff as they can keep down in an hour. Or battling chefs, vying to make the most appetizing plate for TV. If that were the challenge, I'd flunk. I am too much of a snob to eat orange chi

Miranda Brown
Apr 6, 20208 min read
The Golden Arches of Tian'anmen (ASIAN 258 Blog)
About twenty years ago, I found myself eavesdropping on a conversation about imperialism. The woman sitting next to me had taken issue with airline regulations. She thought it was outrageous that English was the lingua franca of air traffic control. “American imperialism,” she scoffed. “You Americans impose your culture, your language, your junk food on the rest of the world. You conquer with McDonald’s and KFC.” At the time, I was inclined to agree about the fast food. Wha

Miranda Brown
Apr 1, 20207 min read


Should Japan Police Sushi? (ASIAN 258)
The question is a real one. It was something that the Japanese government actually considered only a few years ago. In 2006, the Japanese government decided it had to act. The number of Japanese restaurants overseas had swelled, reaching in the tens of thousands. Some officials were thrilled (what a great opportunity, they thought, to exercise "soft" power). Others were alarmed. On their travels abroad, Japanese officials discovered that the "Japanese" food often looked and t

Miranda Brown
Mar 30, 20207 min read


Ramen: A Tangled History of Japan’s Unlikely National Dish (ASIAN 258 )
You don’t need to see it, because you can guess the plot. Ramen Girl (2008) is a cross between Karate Kid (1984), Tampopo (1985), Lost in Translation (2003), and your standard rom com. The story goes as follows. American girl (the late Brittany Murphy ) meets boy and trails him to Japan. Boy dumps girl. Girl drowns her sorrows in a bowl of ramen. Then she finds herself. She apprentices with a tough Japanese ramen chef, discovers the beauty of traditional Japanese culture,

Miranda Brown
Mar 23, 20207 min read


Spicy Rose Pastry from the Palace Kitchen
Spicy, fragrant, and mint, this pastry reportedly came out of the emperor's own kitchen. Read all about it.

Miranda Brown
Nov 5, 20193 min read


Creamy Tea in China: A Forgotten History
Nowadays, we associate Tibetans and Mongols with milk tea. But the Chinese once could not get enough of the stuff.

Miranda Brown
Oct 17, 20193 min read


“English Tea” in Sixteenth-Century China
Who came up with the idea of mixing milk with black tea? If you think Europeans were the first to do this, think again.

Miranda Brown
Oct 12, 20193 min read


Not Panda Express: Cheese Wontons
Think cheese wontons were invented in the USA? Think again. Here's a 16th-century recipe!

Miranda Brown
Sep 1, 20193 min read


Lychee Buns: A Taste of Song-Dynasty Luxury
Buttery, fluffy, and fragrant -- these steamed buns used to delight people in the Song dynasty.

Miranda Brown
Aug 21, 20193 min read


Apricot-Kernel “Yogurt”
Wanna get away from milk, but not sure about soy? There’s good news. I have an ancient Chinese recipe. It tastes better than the almond milk

Miranda Brown
Jul 20, 20192 min read


Taro Tapioca
If tapioca pudding doesn’t sound like a Chinese food, you’d be right. In my mother’s kitchen, it was much more. It was also medicine.

Miranda Brown
Jul 12, 20192 min read


Trust your guts! Why a billion Chinese drinking milk is not the nightmare some predict
Milk consumption is on the rise in China. Some predict this will lead to a billion tummy troubles. Here's why they are wrong.

Miranda Brown
Jun 19, 20193 min read


"No Use Crying Over Milk" -- A Response
You don't need European genes to enjoy dairy.

Miranda Brown
Jun 12, 20192 min read
Are Chinese Lactose Intolerant? Traditional Chinese medicine says otherwise.
Are Chinese Lactose Intolerant? Traditional Chinese Medicine says otherwise.

Miranda Brown
Jun 5, 20192 min read
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